It was cold in New York last night.
Inching down Park Avenue. 7:45 PM. Photo: JH.
The kind of cold where your cheeks burn and your fingers start to numb even under the gloves. Those of us who are warmly bundled up often quickly forget those of us who are not bundled up adequately. The cold causes a personal crisis of sorts and we become forgetful about the discomfort of others, even those around us.

It was hard to find at taxi even on East End Avenue and the traffic in midtown was so congested that taxis were doing their best to avoid it. At lunchtime yesterday I got a taxi to take me to midtown and then we crossed 57th Street going East to West. My driver told me he didn’t really want to go there because every street was so bad. He was right. At Park Avenue he turned off the meter. Why? I asked. “Because I don’t want to go any farther,” he said in his Indian accent.

“But you can't turn left or right on any of these streets,” I countered.

“That’s right,” he said.

“So where you gonna go?”

“I’m gonna make a U-turn.”

“Are you telling me you’re not going to take me to Fifth Avenue?”

“Yes.”

It annoyed me but it not that much. I was going to be late no matter what because of the traffic, so what difference did it make. I thought of how cold it would be walking the two and half long city blocks and the two blocks south. That didn’t really impress me. I’ve walked a lot of cold blocks many times in my life. I was also thinking how this was a perfect opportunity to throw a New York Fit in the cab. Injustice being distributed by my cabdriver. But I thought better of it. It didn’t matter. I have him the money. $7.30 plus a $1.70 tip. I got out in the middle of the four-lane bumper-to-bumper thoroughfare, bumper-to-bumper with nobody moving, and walked.

Click to order
The sidewalks were jammed too. People going every which way. A lot of tourists. A lot of Digitals. I passed by the new Abercrombie and Fitch store on 56th and Fifth. Their doors, as it has been since the opening day a couple of weeks ago, were wide open. As if we were in the tropics. I haven’t been in yet. You can see from the street that it’s dark inside. Or dark-ish. And there are big wooden blinds covering the windows. At the entry way is an enormous black and white photograph of a young (probably 21-year-old) guy reclining. showing a lot of flesh including below the navel where his pant’s fly is half-open. Selling sex, they are. As if to say, if you come in here, you might have sex.

It’s so bizarre, but not really. I imagine eventually we’ll have entry ways with guys and girls completely naked with a focus on their private parts, or, to be more exact, genitalia. And inside, they’ll be selling clothes. Clothes to put on when they’ve decided to cover up. And stop reclining.

The generation that A&F is selling their sex-come-hither garments to are totally unaware of the fact that Abercrombie and Fitch used to be a high end (not the kind of high end this A&F sells) shop where people bought clothes and gear for sport – like polo, or fox-hunting, or deep sea fishing. Think Ralph Lauren sportwear. He certainly thought of the old A&F when he was putting the concept together. It was located on Madison Avenue right next door to Brooks Brothers and had the same clientele. It was quite ritzy and not the kind of place you’d see kids or tourists hanging around outside talking on their cells or wondering where to go next. That A&F went out of business a long time ago. When people started dressing down. Or rather, undressing up.

Bruce Weber
I’ve digressed. Early last evening I hopped a cab on East End Avenue to go down to Bergdorf’s to see Bruce Weber, the fashion photographer (who photographs those goodlooking younger people reclining languidly looking like they’re ready and willing — for sex) who has just published a new book of his photographs. You know his work even if you don’t think you do. Think Ralph Lauren ads. He pretty much created the Ralph Lauren image and the whole commercial idea of the revived WASP/preppy-look.

Mr. Weber is a short, barrel-chested, barrel-bellied looking guy with a ruddy complexion and a very neatly trimmed gruff grey-beard, and he wears a bandana covering his head at all times. Leading one to believe that all the hair on his head is there on his face. He’s a handsome man, in the Trapper Dan style, with strong features, and although he looked very serious signing his books, when his face lights up in a smile he’s very likeable and charming looking.
Susan Fensten
Engelbert DeCastro
J.C. Leyendecker illustrations
Once upon a time when he was young – young like the models he’s famous for photographing, he was a handsome model himself. But that was then; a few dozen pounds ago. He made his fortune (and it is a fortune) taking photographs of these men. In the nineteen-teens and 20s in the last century there was an illustrator named J.C. Leyendecker, who drew idealized looking handsome cleancut men neatly turned out in a shirt and tie. The Arrow Collar ad was a famous Leyendecker creation. Ordinary men looking like movie stars or a character out of Scott Fitzgerald. Sex symbols to both male and female. Bruce Weber has expanded the Leyendecker sensibility with his camera lens.

The place was mobbed, especially with men and women in their twenties kind of scruffily but expensively dressed. Sort of what you think you might see in Abercrombie & Fitch buying their clothes (although I daresay their clothes are not expensive enough for a lot of this crowd). Mr. Weber could have created that new A&F image and at the same time be paying homage to the old A&F image which he fully understands. Tweeds, oxfordcloth and denim.

Everyone was milling around having drinks, little hors d’oeuvres and talking. It was great people watching. NO matter how scruffy the look you know they probably bought it at Bergdorf’s. Lives of poor people as told by rich Hollywood stars. It’s fun to watch, to look at, even to ogle. There’s a lot of nothing going on but really going on, so I guess that’s not nothing.

Afterwards I walked a few blocks with JH who was going over to Barney’s to take a look at their holiday windows. The theme is royalty. They have one tableau of papier-mache life-size dolls of Prince Charles, Camilla and the two boys. He’s in a tub and the boys are sitting on the john(s) and she’s overseeing the whole thing. There are British tabloids strewn all over the floor with reference to their private (sex) lives. It’s very clever and what it has to do with the holiday season is a little on the obscure side but it doesn’t matter as it entertains.
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From there JH and I went our separate ways. I walked a few more blocks in the freezing cold to the townhouse of Arthur Altschul who dates Patricia Duff. They were having a big holiday cocktail party.

Mr. Altschul is related to the prominent Lehman family here in New York, one of the distinguished “Our Crowd” families. There were a number of the relatives among the guests. It was interesting because dynasties are always interesting.

The party was on two floors. On the first floor was a bar overlooking the back patio of the house which features a waterfall. The bartender in black tie was serving pink champagne. Excellent. Other waiters in white jackets were passing the hors d’oeuvres. I saw several people I recognized including Richard Meier the architect, Taylor Stein, Albert Haje, Sharon Sondes (whose mother was a Lehman) and Geoffrey Thomas and Mort Zuckerman, Richard Cohen, the political columnist and his partner Mona Ackerman, Maureen White, Dana Hammond and Dr. Patrick Stubgen, Somers and Jonathan Farkas, Debbie Bancroft, Elizabeth Peabody, Jay Snyder, Jay Cantor, Ann Barish, Alexandra and Arthur Schlesinger Jr., Katrina vanden Heuvel and many more who looked very familiar but whom I don’t know. Ms. Duff has long been active in political circles and so there were, no doubt, a lot of politcal personalities and/or commentators there.

 
It was one of those cocktail parties where I thought I’d stop in and say hello and turn around and leave. But it turned out to be one of those parties where everyone was in a chatty and friendly mood, so there was all kinds of talking to people I’d never met before. Jay Cantor is the man who gave me and JH a tour of the Jay Gould house “Lyndhurst” last summer up in Irvington on the Hudson (see archives). We ended up talking about writers. He asked me if I’d ever read David Sedaris who has a new book out. No, I hadn’t. So as he was leaving, Jay handed me paperback of a Sedaris book called Holidays on Ice. Frankly I never thought I’d even open it since humor writers are not my priority.

Then about nine o’clock I decided I needed to get home, so I left, with my book. I couldn’t find a taxi so I decided to take a bus up Third Avenue. Once in my seat, I opened Holidays On Ice. The first part is about the author applying for a job as an elf at holiday time at Macy’s. It was hysterical. I was laughing out loud all the way up Third Avenue. The kind of laughing where you know other people are looking at you and either thinking you’re nuts or wondering what you’re reading that’s so funny. A perfect holiday cocktail party.

The windows at Barney's



December 15, 2005, Volume V, Number 209
Photographs by Jeff Hirsch/NYSD.com

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© 2006 David Patrick Columbia & Jeffrey Hirsch/NewYorkSocialDiary.com