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New York fashion designer Geoffrey Beene passed away a year
ago this month. His passing
was a very great loss to his legions of fans and his private
clientele. Patsy Tarr who is one of the
world’s most active dance philanthropists was a loyal Beene
client. Last month she devoted an entire issue of her semi-annual
dance and arts magazine, 2wice, to the man’s
creations.
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Front and back slipcover of 2wice |
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The result is an unusual, beautiful piece of art both in terms
of publishing and as a tribute to a very creative man.
She and I had a conversation yesterday afternoon about the project.
DPC: How did this edition of 2wice come
about? PT: I
was so filled with grief when he died that I wanted to
do something to pay tribute to him in 2wice. His birthday
was August
30th and I set a goal to publish a tribute on his birthday
this year. In a most selfish way, it also gave me a year
to think about
Geoffrey Beene.
DPC: I know you were a devoted customer of his and that there are
quite a few of you. What is it about his clothes that caused such
devotion?
PT: A lot of Beene comes from wearing the
clothes – you
understand how comforable and luxurious they are and you spend
time looking
the mirror and seeing how beautifully designed they are. The
way “in” was
to start wearing the clothes.
I never actually thought I’d meet Geoffrey Beene. Something
caught my eye in the store one day (this was about 1980). I tried
it on. It seemed somewhat flattering and so I bought it. It was
a long dress, sleeveless, with an empire line, with layers of
calico and lace and a little jacket. It was the kind of thing
you could
wear all the time – fancy, not so fancy. Afterwards I
started to realize that it was just this wonderful garment
and I kept
wearing it over and over. I still wear it. The following season,
I bought more. One day it occurred to me these clothes were
just incredible.
DPC: When did you meet him?
PT: I finally met him several years after
I’d been buying
his clothes. I’d been invited to show he was doing
on 7th Avenue.
DPC: What was your impression of him?
PT: He was very reticient. Like he wished
he could disappear. Practically hiding in the back. All these
people who
wanted to congratulate
him. I was buying so many clothes I must have come to attention.
Then Betty Halbreich who is head of personal shopping at
Bergdorf Goodman took me to his showroom on 7th Avenue and
I started
buying things there. Betty has her own department
called Solutions. She's
very famous. Very chic and fashionable.
DPC: So,
then what was he like?
PT: He
was still reticent. But he was very sweet, very kind. I would
talk
about what I needed and he would suggest things.
Finally
he had a little boutique in the Sherry and he’d occasionally
swing by. Sometimes I’d go to his atelier which was on
57th Street.
DPC: It seems
that the Beene customer was a religious customer, religiously
Beene.
PT: To most of the people who knew him and
for whom he made clothes, he was very smart and insightful. He
had a way of
figuring out
what you needed even if you didn’t know: what was going
to look good on you and take you over the top.
DPC: How did you choose the designs that
you feature in the 2wice Beene tribute.
PT: They
were all my clothes. We decided to limit ourselves to black,
white and red, with one exception that is orange.
We chose
those three colors because we felt they would have the greatest
amount of impact to the reader. When publishing, the page really
has to be clear to the reader to have maximum impact. We wanted
everything to pop off the page.
We chose the accordion page so that each section could be looked
at like a book with two sides, or set out on a table like a
piece of art. That way it is interactive but it is also a book.
DPC: It’s
really a work of art and so much more substantial than a magazine
or even a coffee table book. Do your regular
subscribers receive this at no extra cost?
PT: Yes,
although Barney’s has promised to buy it also
for their holiday gifts.
DPC: What will it sell for?
PT: $50.
DPC: Gee, that’s a bargain; it really
is a beautiful work of art. Where can people buy it?
PT: They can get it by going to www.2wice.org.
And,
as I said, it’s going to be in Barney’s for
the holidays.
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